Crafting Ouazzane’s Jellaba

Ouazzane’s jellaba is one of the most iconic garments, symbolising the strong bond between Moroccans, particularly the inhabitants of Ouazzane, and their cultural identity. The craft of weaving this jellaba has stood the test of time and overcome various challenges, thanks to the dedication of Ouazzane’s craftsmen, who have diligently preserved the traditional characteristics of this textile, both in terms of techniques and the raw materials used. This unwavering commitment has made Ouazzane’s jellaba renowned both within Morocco and beyond. The process begins with local sheepherders shearing wool, which is then washed by women in the water of a natural spring known as sharshoura. The wool is placed in cane baskets, left to dry in the sun, and then subjected to sulfurisation using sulfur to achieve a lustrous white colour. The wool is washed again, dried, and combed to produce strips. Next, craftswomen spin these strips using a wooden wheel called a naoura. The resulting fine threads are then wrapped around a length of reed in a process known as tashbia. Finally, the wool threads are sold in the textile market to male knitters, known as drazza. The drazza transform the wool threads into cloth, which is then fashioned into jellabas. There are various styles of jellabas, including summer styles (such as silk susdi) and winter styles (hba lghlida, lmria, nwarat lfoul, and selsa), as well as spring styles (jerbia and silk jerbia). Ouazzane is renowned for its spiritual atmosphere, rich history, natural beauty, and diverse intangible cultural heritage, all of which are reflected in the craftsmanship of the jellaba.